Off the Beaten Path in West Virginia…Road Trip!

off the beaten path in West Virginia

Our goal heading south from Pennsylvania was veering off the beaten path in West Virginia. What did we encounter? Quirky mountain towns. Beautiful falls. An intriguing spa in a Hobbit-like salt cave. And some stranger things…Bizarre rocks. A giant tower communicating with outer space. A mysterious mountain inn. And more! Come explore with us…

Meditation at Pomona Salt Cave & Spa, off the beaten path in West Virginia, USA

Meeting in Pittsburgh after her summer internship, my daughter and I took the long way home…spending time in West Virginia, Kentucky and even dipping down to Nashville before reaching Indiana.

 

Our Road Trip

This section of our 10 day journey took us south along the eastern border of West Virginia through the Monongahela National Forest.

Spreading out a 4 hour drive between the tiny village of Thomas in the north and White Sulphur Springs in the south, Jordan and I spent 3 nights in this remote rural region exploring some of the unusual places and experiences it offered. We traveled over quiet country roads, rarely seeing another car as we wound our way through the beautiful Allegheny Mountains.

Getting to Thomas from Pittsburgh takes 3 hours, either driving southeast through Uniontown on US-42/US-219, or driving directly south through Morgantown on I-79 and then east on backroads joining US 219 to Davis, which is what we did. If you take the 2nd route, you can keep driving to Weston on I-79 and visit the Trans-Allegeny Lunatic Asylum enroute to Davis (which only adds another 42 mintues total to your trip. Highly recommend!).

country roads take me home West Virginia

John Denver’s song stuck with us every time we headed out. You know the one—

Country roads…take me home…to the place I belong…West Virginia… mountain mama, take me home… country roads… 

 

Driving south on Highway 219, just 9 miles north of Thomas, we saw signs for the tiniest church and pulled off the road. There, at the base of towering 12-story Hemlock trees sat the tiny Catholic church, Lady of the Pines.

Tiniest church in America!

Going inside, we saw an altar and 6 tiny pews that seat two. No services are conducted here–as far as I know. Lady of Pines, Off the beaten path in West Virginia

But someone certainly maintains it. The interior and grounds were pristine with a profusion of blooming flowers that added another layer to the tranquil serenity under whispering pines. Indeed a sweet memorial that Lithuanian Peter Milkint lovingly built for his immigrant parents back in 1958.

Back on the road, we soon approached Thomas. But before we knew it, we had driven through this tiny 3 block town, and were on our way to neighboring Davis.

Country roads take me home off the beaten path in West Virginia

 

Quirky mountain towns off the beaten path in West Virginia…Thomas & Davis

Davis and Thomas are two tiny mountain towns, just 3 miles apart! Either is a perfect base for a few days if you like hiking, waterfalls, mountain biking, fishing, breweries and live music.

Located in what was once the Great Wilderness, a region of impenetrable forests and peat bogs, Davis is the highest town in West Virginia at 3,520 ft elevation. Back in the 1880s, brothers Thomas Davis and Senator Henry Davis operated the world’s largest coal mine and a booming lumber mill. They founded their namesake towns drawing lumberjacks and miners. Today, neither industry survives. But these neighboring towns still draw people—tourists keen on nature and adventure.

Davis

There are more accommodation choices and restaurants in Davis than Thomas. We stayed at the Bright Morning Inn, a former 1896 lumberjack boarding house in 1896. We enjoyed the clean, newly renovated contemporary furnishings in our upstairs ensuite room overlooking main street. There was a fridge and microwave in the hallway for all to share. But perhaps the best part of the inn is downstairs–Milo’s Cafe. The chef creates a different gourmet burger nightly when open 4-8pm, select days. (I’m still thinking about that avocado bacon goat cheese spicy aoili burger!) Delicious. If the cafe is closed walk down the street for Italian, pizza, or burritos across the street at Hellbenders next to the Wild Ginger & Spice hippie shop.

Thomas

Highly recommend carving out some time to wander around town. All the shops are located on a single street inside historic buildings along one-side of main street, facing Blackwater River.

We enjoyed a morning browsing the interesting art galleries, book stores and specialty items. Couldn’t resist buying several things, including a mesmerizing art piece Autumn by Robin Quinlivan, a local artist at this co-op. Finished shopping with lunch, eating tacos outdoors at the end of this tiny street.

Art gallery, Thomas, off the beaten path i West Virginia      Art gallery, Thomas, off the beaten path i West Virginia      Art gallery, Thomas, off the beaten path i West Virginia

If you’re visiting on a weekend, be sure to come back in the evening to hear live mountain music at the Purple Fiddle.

Purple Fiddle, THomas, off the eten path i West Virginia

Nationally touring bands fill up the Fri & Sat schedule 6 months in advance, so check their website to see –and hear–a preview of who is playing that night. Some nights are free. Others require tickets ($10-30) secured in advance. Then get there early to grab a seat in the inviting space in this former store where casual tables sit on the original wooden floors facing an elevated stage. You may wish to grab dinner first elsewhere, and just nosh on appetizers as their menu has a limited selection of sandwiches (turkey, grilled cheese or veggie wraps) plus wine and beer.

Listening to the live acoustic music here was pure joy. The Faux Paws played a combination of Appalachian rock, bluegrass, southern, and ballads mixed in with upbeat tunes and funny lyrics.  Loved the casual vibe, shared laughter, and the chance to interact with band members during their break and buy a couple CDs. Wonderful venue. Fun night!

 

Exploring the Great Outdoors

Just outside of Davis is Blackwater Falls State Park, a prime outdoor destination with two waterfalls, 20 miles of hiking, and scenic mountain overlooks.

Blackwater Falls, Off the beaten path in West Virginia

Namesake Blackwater Falls

Located in the Allegheny Mountains, Blackwater Falls State Park is named for its namesake Falls. Amber waters cascading down 57 feet, are tinted brown from tanic acid in the fallen hemlock and red spruce needles. Blackwater Falls, Elakala Falls, and Lindy Point are hugely popular, and some of the state’s most instagrammed spots year round. The park has a lodge with a restaurant, 39 cabins and a campground.

Elakala Falls

Jordan and I hiked a couple different trails at Blackwater Falls. My favorite was the trail leading from Blackwater Lodge to Elakala Falls and beyond.

 

Elakala Falls

The trail is relatively short, but steep and riddled with roots and rocks. And slippery mud after a rain! To see the first of 4 falls, veer right off the trail after crossing the bridge. The water falls 35 feet under the bridge, and is the easiest to reach. The other 3 falls are beyond, lower in the gorge, dropping 200 ft. There’s no trail whatsoever. Just sharp rocks to use as stepping stones along the river.

Dave and I also came through Blackwater Falls in May after dropping Jordan off in Pennsylvania. So I had the chance to see Elakala Falls on a very rainy day in late spring and again with Jordan at the end of summer. Look at the differences below…

Elakala Falls, Blackwater Falls, Off the beaten path in West VirginiaTaken late May, when water level was normal. A tripod and slow shutter speed captured the swirling water.

Elakala Falls, Blackwater Falls, Off the beaten path in West Virginia

Same scene in late August with same slow shutter speed but higher water levels. So no eddy.

 

Lindy Point

Another popular trail is the short hiking path to Lindy Point. Most people come for sunset. But be forewarned that parking is a problem at the trailhead with room for little more than a few cars. The trail is only .8 mile and relatively flat. But extremely muddy in places—even on dry days.

Blackwater Falls, West Virginia

Hiking to Lindy Point, Blackwater Falls

At the end of the trail, you’ll find this!

Off the beaten path in West Virginia Blackwater Falls, West Virginia

Lindy Point, Blackwater Falls State Park

This entire region is a mecca for those who love the outdoors from mountain biking, hiking to cross county skiing. If you left your bike at home, rent equipment from outfitters in Davis. Great places to hike include Blackwater Falls State Park, Dolly Sods Wilderness in the Monongahela National Forest and Canaan Valley Wildlife Refuge wetland a bit further south. What’s your preference? Dense forests, pristine rivers, bogs, rocky ridges or wind-sculpted canyons? It’s all here in the Allegheny Mountains.

If you continue driving south of Davis another 40 minutes on WV-32 and veer east on WV-33 like we did, you’ll come to a climber’s mecca, Seneca Rocks.

 

Rocky adventures off the beaten path in West Virginia…Seneca Rocks!

Did you know that the US Army used Seneca Rocks to train troops in assault climbing back in 1943-44? Because it best resembled the rocky mountains in Italy where soldiers were headed. Nowadays, it’s a popular place for climbers, with 375 routes! And hikers. Each have their own side of the rock, separated by a notch.

Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West VirginiaThe distinctive outcropping is visible from the road as you approach. Jutting up from the landscape, Seneca Rock rises 900 feet above North Fork River. Using binoculars at the Discovery Center or Harper’s Old Country store, you can watch climbers ascending and standing victoriously on the summit.

What you can’t see, though, is the thin, razorback ridge at the very top. Climbers on this jagged ridge, rising like a shark’s fin, must experience one helluva high above the forested mountain.

Only aerial shots captured from drones can really do it justice.

In fact, stop reading and check out this video by hiker Kevin Eassa to see the narrow ridgeline. Right now! The first few seconds will blow you away! Scares me to look at it now, even though I didn’t feel nervous at the time when I was hiking there. (Bravo to Bri standing on the ridge in the video–not sure how she got up there!)

The Hike

Jordan and I bought water at Harper’s Country store and parked at the Homestead across from the trailhead. Although you can also access the trail behind the Discovery Center.

The 2.6 mile trail (round trip) rated ‘moderate’ felt rather easy. The dirt path was clutter free of rocks or tree roots, and easy to follow.

Trail on Seneca Rocks is well maintainedThe hardest part was the 700 foot elevation. Thankfully they’ve created switchbacks for that!  The wooden platform at the end of the trail has views of the surrounding landscapes, but not of Seneca Rocks like you might be expecting.

Platform at Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West VirginiaTo see the ridge that Seneca Rocks is famous for you have to keep hiking—or rather scrambling up and over some rocks. But first there’s a sign that warns you to STOP. Proceed past here at your own risk, as 15 people have died since 1971.

Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West Virginia

I wanted to see the ridgeline. But Jordan refused to take another step. She sat down and pulled off her backpack. Not even a peek? Nope. Didn’t figure she would with her fear of heights. Which is why she brought a book. OK, don’t worry, I’ll be careful!

Beyond the STOP Sign

Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West Virginia

Scrambling up these rocks, I came to this view.

Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West Virginia

Seneca Rocks! The ridge extended into a backdrop of forested mountains dotted with tiny farmlands. A few people sat on the rocks here admiring the view. But the rocks beckoned…

Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West Virginia

Time to explore! Scanning for the safest route, I jumped down, clamored over some rocks and squeezed through a cleft. I heard someone behind me noticing. Hey, she’s going for it. C’mon, let’s go! The passage actually felt secure. I was between giant slabs of rock, not bracing against the wind along a narrow ridge. My nylon backpack held my GroPro, mini-tripod and water while my Sony a9 hung from my shoulder.

Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West Virginia

Exiting the cleft and looking back, I could see others start to come.

Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West Virginia

In front of me was another bump of rocks. A man and his two teens had climbed up onto the ridge for a picnic.

Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West Virginia

But I stayed low, and curved around to the right to a small landing where I could watch rock climbers across the notch.

Rock Climbers on Seneca

Climbers on Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West Virginia

85mm

You can tell how high that rock fin juts out of the earth, and how MASSIVE it is, compared to the tiny size of the climbers. (Too bad I didn’t bring my telezoom, but I didn’t know how sketchy it might be balancing a lot of gear on the ridge. Turns out I could’ve.)

What an incredible rush to reach the summit after climbing 900 feet!

Climbers on Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West Virginia

On the hiker’s side of the notch, I stayed on the ground (instead of climbing higher on rocks) and felt safe and calm at all times. The rocky surface area seemed plenty wide (5-10 feet) and had occasional trees to grab if needed. It’s the opposite side (left side) you should avoid when hiking out to this spot. A steep vertical cliff plummets all the way down the ridge.

Retracing my route

With nowhere else to go, I retraced my route. A woman was coming through the cleft, but she appeared to be climbing up to the top of that dangerous cliffside ridge. No idea why.

Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West Virginia

But something obviously spooked her, cuz she decided to retreat completely and go back to the entrance sign. I followed them back down the last scramble leading to the base of the ridge.

Seneca Rocks, off the beaten path in West Virginia

Looking for Jordan, I noticed quite a few people sitting around the base. Some were trying to get the nerve to venture beyond. The fear of the unknown is always the biggest factor. That’s why I posted so many pictures to show that you don’t have to scramble to the top of the ridge. Stay low. Go slow. And if you truly suffer fear of heights or vertigo, just don’t go. (I’m no expert hiker, but I honestly didn’t feel afraid. Unlike my Arizona hike on Angel’s Landing!)

Going back down the trail only took us 20 minutes. Such a breeze compared to huffing our way up.

After our hike we walked through the Homestead cabin, checked out the Discovery Center and got gas at Harper’s store before hitting the road.

Homestead at Seneca Rocks, WV

Homestead Cabin

It was time to head south on US 33/WV-28. We still had a 1.5 hour drive to reach our farm stay in Frost (a mere speck on the map). Along the way we passed signage for NRocks. Sigh…

 

Via Ferrata adventure at NRocks

When I first learned about NRock’s tour while planning our trip, I was instantly intrigued! I’ve always wanted to do a Via Ferrata hike. It’s the closest thing to being a mountain climber without the technical equipment or knowhow. Roped in for safety, you clip into cables as you climb straight up exposed rock, stepping on iron rungs as you ascend.

The Nelson rock formations look very similar to Seneca Rocks. Stony jagged ridges protrude through the forest, like a dinosaur ripping through the treetops. An epic place!

But could I do this?

Heart racing, I looked at pics and videos, trying to imagine being there. And kept returning to Kevin Eassa’s Via Ferrata video.

It looked thrilling. And terrifying. Especially the part where you cross the wobbly suspension bridge—200 feet long—between two mountain tops. And the height between rungs concerned me. I am 5’1″ short. Was I strong enough to pull myself up? Would my legs fatigue early on, barely able to reach the rungs without a huge effort on every step? It is a 5 hour commitment. BUT. What an adventure! So I convinced myself that we should go, and suggested it to Jordan. Her raised eyebrows said it all. NOPE.

Months later, and the temptation still lingers… 

Wanna go? NRocks offers the guided Via Ferrata Climb year round, $125. And if you’re reeeeally brave, you can climb this route at NIGHT under a Full Moon. They also offer rock climbing instruction, ziplining, and caving.

 

A strange observatory off the beaten path in West Virginia…Green Bank Telescope

Driving south on Route 28/WV-92, we spotted a strange sight 44 miles from Seneca Rocks. Rising above the trees, a robotic-looking structure was raising a fist up to the sky. What is THAT?

Curious, we pulled into the drive of the Green Bank Observatory.

Off the beaten path in West Virginia

The Green Bank Telescope (GBT) is the most technically advanced single-dish radio telescope in the world. The outstretched arm reaches up to the sky to collect incredibly faint radio waves from the universe.

We’d crossed into a National Quiet Radio Zone, a 13,000-square-mile area near the central state’s eastern border extending into Virginia.

No wonder we had no cell phone coverage. (And wouldn’t until the next evening.)

It did make us feel kinda vulnerable traveling through here. Not a soul in sight. Just deer. The paved road snaking through forested mountains had no gas stations, restaurants or businesses in sight. If our car broke down, we couldn’t pull into a station. OR call Triple A.

We had entered…THE TWILIGHT ZONE.

Off the beaten path in West Virginia

But we were just passing through. Imagine living here without ever having cell service. Wi-Fi. Or cable tv. Even microwaves and garage door openers are banned within a 10 mile radius of the GBT.

Because this giant telescope needs to remain free from any radio frequency interference so that it can communicate with outer space!

Radio astronomers use pulsars to study the physics of matter and enormous magnetic fields. They also use the 7 telescopes on site to study atoms and molecules in the distant universe, new star formations, and galaxies. And, since 2017, the GBT has been the leading instrument used in SETI, the search for Extraterrestrial Intelligence. (Yikes, I reeeeally didn’t want to see any little green men out here later tonight. Please don’t lure them in!)

Open to the public for general tours Thursdays-Mondays, the Green Bank Observatory and Science Center also has specialized SETI and High Tech tours for wannabe astronomers. Plus star-gazing parties. And even overnight tours for science students. An impressive line-up of affordable, unusual tours!

With zero light pollution, can you imagine a star party here?

 

Mysterious lodge in West Virginia… the Inn at Mountain Quest

Thirteen miles south of the Green Bank Observatory, off WV-92, sits the Inn at Mountain Quest waiting at the end of a daisy-lined drive. So very inviting!

Off the beaten path in West Virginia

Located in a high mountain valley in the Appalachians, the inn is nestled in a grove of trees beside a farmhouse on a 450 acre property with horses, mules and chickens.

Off the beaten path in West Virginia

A tranquil, gorgeous setting!

mountain quest institute, WV

Pulling up we noticed the large sign on the inn—Mountain Quest Institute.

(Institute??? What did that mean?)

We parked behind several cars in the circular drive. The inn was so quiet it appeared deserted. And so did the pasture. Where were the animals? People? Walking around, we didn’t see anyone. Or hear anything.

The complete stillness felt unsettling. Almost eerie.

The owner had contacted us several days earlier when we were sightseeing in Pittsburgh, stating he was charging our full rate in advance. He would be out of town during our stay, but that our Garden Room would be unlocked. Vouchers would be left in our room for breakfast down the road at Dean’s Den. And that his wife should be around if we had any problems. In light of his absence, our experience may not have been the norm…considering the high stars on Tripadvisor reviews.

The inn

Looking for reception, we didn’t see any signs. So we entered the adjacent building and wandered through. The rooms were dark, quiet, and empty. Or so I thought. Spooked, I jumped when I rounded a corner and saw a man sitting in the shadows. He shyly smiled in return.

We didn’t find any staff, or any written information about the inn. (Apparently there’s an observatory in the tower, a jacuzzi, sauna, and hiking trails, but who knew??) But we did find a couple rooms to revisit later that evening. A game room with arcades and a pool table had an impressive wall of DVD movies organized by genre. And an amazing two-story library filled with 26,000 books!

library at mountain quest instituteThe massive library decked out with chandelier, grand piano, leather couches and a spiral staircase sat beside a dining room large enough to seat 60 people. Which made us curious about the Institute again. What was this place? Clearly these books were central to the research that must go on here. Scanning the shelves we saw books about physics, psychology, history, spirituality, paranormal, organization, philosophy, quantum theory…

What did they study? Was the Institute still in use?

Of course I was tempted to do an internet search right then and there. But, no wifi. We were still in the National Radio Quiet Zone, remember? So I had to wait till I got home to do a little digging…

Labyrinth at Quest Mountain Institute Off the beaten path in West Virginia

Overgrown Labryinth behind the inn 

Mountain Quest Institute

According to information later gleaned online, the founding owners, Dr. Alex and Dr. David Bennet have degrees in human organization, neuroscience and atomic physics. David was a nuclear physicist and professor; and his wife Alex the Chief Knowledge Officer for the US Navy. Married later in life, they left top jobs in DC to build this rural Institute & Retreat Center to help people achieve growth and understanding through quests for Knowledge, Meaning and Consciousness using science, humanistic and spiritual awakening. They’ve co-authored numerous books about these quests. And have led workshops and retreats for individuals, groups and businesses since roughly 2002.

When they stopped leading workshops, and moved out of the inn, however, I could not find. They currently live in a house near the entrance to the farm, which I happened to photograph unknowingly. I was simply drawn to the cloud hovering over this home.

Bennet home in Frost, West Virginia

According to the intro in their 2010 book, Journey into the Myst, a “miracle happened to them on the property, enlightening their spiritual side that had been firmed rooted in science.” Alex began capturing orbs and otherworldly beings floating around on this farm with her Canon camera. And their quest to explore a bridge into the unknown began…Two additional books in the series continue deeper into the journey, sharing their experiences not only observing, but interacting with the Myst, and their explanations merging scientific and spiritual elements behind the phenomenon.

Granted, the concept seems pretty out there… But she does have thousands of images of strange and wonderful beings that were taken around the inn. Had I been familiar with her work prior to my stay, and known the Myst was potentially steps from my room, you can guess I’d have ventured outside that night, even if it was cloudy, for the chance of capturing anything like she did in her books.

After all, “The human experience is a neuronal dance with the Universe,” Drs. Alex and David Bennet say in their 2021 book, Where the Mountains Meet the Library.

Inn at Mountain Quest off the beaten path in West Virginia

Our Stay

Back to my quest to find our room…

Since we had no way of knowing which of the 12 guestrooms was ours, we had to peek in windows to identify our room. Which wasn’t hard, as all rooms are eccentrically decorated by theme. I’d seen pics online when we booked. Most were already taken, including the Innovation, Cosmic, Safari, Oriental, and Nautical rooms. We were looking for the Garden room…

A foul-mouthed person caught us looking in their room and began screaming f-bombs at us as we quickly tiptoed away. Turns out it was a little kid.

Our Garden room was spacious and perfectly functional with 2 beds, a clean bathroom and coffeemaker. The decor was —dated. Two double beds with crocheted bedspreads sat on a wooden floor with a partial fence acting as a headboard. A garden scene mural covered the back wall. Plastic flowers sat on the dresser next to a tv with a built-in dvd player. (No cable, remember?) Returning to the game room we selected several DVD’s to watch later.

Inn at Mountain Quest off the beaten path in West Virginia

Food

We walked around the property, discovering an overgrown labyrinth in the backyard and a creek beside the gravel drive. When we wandered back to the inn we ran into the innkeeper’s wife who was sitting barefoot in the grass outside her farmhouse.

She casually mentioned that Dean’s Diner was closed for a few days. So our voucher for a cooked-to-order breakfast was void. I’m ok with skipping breakfast. But what about dinner? That’s where we’d planned to eat. It’s the only restaurant around!

We apparently had 2 options. Fast food in Marlington 21 miles away, or a cafe at Cass train station, 16 miles away. Both would take over an hour, round trip.

Bummer. I wasn’t keen on driving curvy mountain roads at dusk with so many deer in the land of no cell service. And frankly miffed that this wasn’t communicated to us in advance so we wouldn’t have to backtrack up Route 28 so soon after we arrived. (Turns out the cook at Dean’s Diner is her brother. And her parents, the founders.)

We chose the closest restaurant, and drove north. With no GPS in the Quiet Zone, we depended on signs to weave west on the backroads to Cass. The train station was deserted, as the passenger train had finished its scenic tour hours ago. We ate BBQ and Kraft macaroni and cheese as staff cleaned tables around us as the last diners at the Last Run cafe. And luckily hit no deer driving back.

Two hours later we pulled into the Inn, and settled into our room to watch movies. Our room was on the lower floor, directly across from the barn. Before bed I set up my tripod in hopes of capturing the Milky Way in these incredibly dark skies. The heavy cloud cover didn’t look promising. And didn’t lift all night. So I never went out. But the beds were comfortable, and we both slept well.

Quest Mountain Institute Off the beaten path in West Virginia

Morning Mist

I set my alarm at 6am for dawn. The farm looked beautiful in the misty sunrise. Mountains were visible and the horses were out!

A couple hours later, the farm hand saw us admiring the animals and asked if we wanted to meet them. (Turns out he was the one who spooked me in the shadows yesterday.) I knew that overnight stays included a morning farm tour. So we followed him into the barn while he fed the horses, then out to the pastures.

With a soft-spoken voice, he told us a little about the animals. Then ventured into his beliefs and thoughts about the metaphysical world, citing scripture along with ideas that I didn’t quite follow…

Off the beaten path in West Virginia

Checking out, we simply left our key on the bed, as our credit card had been run days before. No one said goodbye, much like no one had said hello.

Leaving, we couldn’t quite shake the underlying, unsettling vibe… (Especially Jordan who’s majoring in hospitality and hotel management!)

Mountain Quest Inn off the beaten path in West Virginia

But the property is definitely unique and has a ton of potential with the large conference room, huge dining room, library and rural farm setting. I can imagine wonderful farm-to-table dinners, multi-course wine-pairing dinners, cooking classes, yoga retreats, book club weekends, writing workshops, star gazing parties, photo workshops and more!

 

 

Captivating salt cave off the beaten path in West Virginia…Pomona Spa

Back on the road, we continued south on US 92/WV 28, excited about our next destination 45 minutes away. Spa day!!

Located at 6705 Pocohontas Trail between Alvon and Mapledale, the unusual shape of this earthen spa beckons from the highway.

welcome to Pomona Salt Cave & Spa, off the beaten path in West Virginia, USATucked into a hillside, Pomona Salt Cave & Spa offers unique services in a serene setting. Clear signs led the way to reception, where we were warmly welcomed.

We checked in for our upcoming appointments, then ate chicken pesto paninis for lunch in their adjacent Garden Cafe. Yum. The menu inludes other healthy sandwiches, salads, coffees, smoothies and fresh baked desserts.

Pomona Salt Cave & Spa, off the beaten path in West Virginia, USA

Founders Marius & Adriana Grecu, both artists, spent years creating this hidden gem. Marius, a certified Natural Medicine doctor, and his wife Adriana wanted to provide a holistic spa to promote natural healing in a tranquil setting, believing that our bodies have the potential to heal itself.

Inside this hobbit-like dwelling is the captivating centerpiece of their spa. An artistic, intriguing salt cave!

hobbit like Pomona Salt Cave & Spa, off the beaten path in West Virginia, USA

 

Pomona Salt Cave

Stalactites hang from a ceiling bathed in orange light where tiny stars twinkle around a glowing moon. A calming, magical space.

Meditation at Pomona Salt Cave & Spa, off the beaten path in West Virginia, USA

You can’t help but inhale deeply… and feel the tension unwind the moment you step in…it’s soooooo relaxing.

Himalayan salt contains 84 minerals essential to our health. The couple used over 16,000 lbs of it to create the cave—from the walls, salt lamp bricks, ceiling and stalactities to the large salt crystals that feel like sand on the floor. During Halotherapy sessions, an undectable mist of fine salt is also added to the air.

Sitting inside a salt cave for 45 minutes is like inhaling salty ocean air for 3 days!

Halotherapy has been practiced by many cultures for centuries. According to their website, the health benefits from inhaling negative ions, minerals and salt crystals counteract the postive ions emitted by our computers, tv, and cell phones that can create destructive free radicals. Halotherapy also alleviates respiratory congestion caused by allergies, asthma or bronchitis, and encourages deep relaxation which can help restore balance to our bodies, as stress often exacerbates illness and prevents our bodies from healing.

Halotherapy sessions are available on the hour throughout the day ($20). Book a session and join others inside the cave. Soothing music, dimmed lights and reclining chairs make it easy to relax and let all tensions subside. Don’t be surprised if you fall fast asleep.

White socks, Zero Gravity lounge chairs and warm blankets are provided. Sunday morning yoga classes and twice monthly Salt & Sound meditation sessions are also held here in the cave.

 

Spa Services

A professional team provides an assortment of services including massage, clay body wraps, facials, cupping, cryotherapy, wellness consultations, ion foot detox, light therapy, Reiki, yoga, and Salt & Sound meditation. Hours vary by season, but the Pomono Salt Cave and Spa is closed on Wednesdays year round.

Jordan and I had booked 3 services: Cascade Foot Soak, Swedish massage, and the Salt & Sound Meditation.

massage at Pomona Salt Cave & Spa, off the beaten path in West Virginia, USA

The staff was very thorough when handling our appointments. We filled out health forms online, received phone calls and follow up emails about our appointments. Our licensed massage therapists knew what type of pressure we wanted, what allergies we had, and what scents we liked or disliked far in advance. They even asked–weeks in advance– what flavor smoothie we wanted during our foot soak.

I’ve never known a spa to focus on such tiny details. But the processes they have in place ensure a very smooth operation.

During our visit, a seamless progression flowed from one treatment session to the next, without having to stop, ask and then prepare a room based on information they just learned about our preferences. And our selected smoothies sat ready by our massage chairs when we entered the treatment room. (I’d forgotten what I even ordered until I saw it.)

Our therapists for the day were Liza and Rhonda who were both excellent, professional and caring. They often asked if the pressure was good and how we were feeling. Loved the use of hot towels during the Swedish massage, and the head traction for a gentle neck stretch.

Cascade Foot Soak

This was something that I hadn’t seen at a spa before. An herbal foot bath with a vibrating chair massage. We had a choice of herbs and fruits to beautify our feet. And a choice of smoothie to drink from the Garden Cafe. Sweet! How often do you get to sip a refreshing fruity drink blended with coconut milk while being pampered? A perfect pairing.

Pomona Salt Cave and Spa, off the beaten path in West Virginia Foot soak mom and daughter spa day

You have the option of 3 herbal treatments. I chose Pomona: a blend of Epsom and Himalayan salts, clay, orange, lavender, cedar wood, bergamot and lemon essential oils, lavender bubbles topped with rose petals, orange, lemon and lime slices.

Foot soak at Pomona Spa

Jordan chose the Lemongrass Fields: a blend of salts, lemongrass and eucalyptus oil, French green clay, spearmint and eucalyptus leaves topped with bubbles and orange slices.

The herbs smelled great!

Foot soak at Pomona Salt Cave & Spa, off the beaten path in West Virginia, USA

Lights were dimmed, allowing patterns to dance through sconces. Therapists added hot water halfway through our soak, then powdered our feet and legs afterward.

Pomona Salt Cave & Spa, off the beaten path in West Virginia, USA

After our Cascade foot soak, we walked around the flower garden for a bit until it began to rain. We looked around the lobby of the salt cave where they sell various salt lamps and other items to promote health and wellness. The lobby itself is interesting. Walls are carved with petrolyphs that the owners painstakingly created, and a tree grows through the middle of the room, its branches forming hand railings for a staircase leading to 2 additional massage rooms.

                Merch at Pomona Salt Cave and Spa, off the beaten path in West Virginia        petroglyphs

At 5:45pm we had our last session of the day, the Salt & Sound Meditation in the Pomona salt cave.

 

Salt & Sound Meditation

Twice a month this special Salt & Sound Meditation is offered at Pomona Salt Cave & Spa. We’d never participated in something like this, and didn’t really know what to expect.

Pomona Salt Cave & Spa, off the beaten path in West Virginia, USA

When we entered the cave, the facilitator, Greg Burns, was sitting on a blanket behind a row of singing bowls with a gong to the side. About ten of us settled into the chairs and listened to his low, calm voice. He explained that the sound vibrations we were about to hear encourage deep relaxation, a meditative state of mind that may spark creative solutions or just help you sleep better. Be open. Just lay back, get comfortable, close your eyes and relax. Listen to the sounds and feel the vibrations of harmonic tones.

He used wind chimes, singing bowls, drums, and a rubber mallet on the gong to create tones and vibrations. Nimble yet calculated, he created a virtual symphony of music that at times sounded like stringed violins. The harmonic tones built into complex, energetic crescendos, the vibrations revertebrating around the cave in a circular motion from one ear reaching around to the other in a warm embrace. Like a hug that reached deep into your soul.

Sound meditation at Pomona Salt Cave & Spa, off the beaten path in West Virginia, USA

The only photo I took during the Sound Meditation. Go Pro on mini-tripod. 10 sec exposure

Other tones were soft, gentle, soothing. So relaxing that I heard someone snoring. I, too, was on the verge of falling asleep when tinkling, high pitched wind chimes nudged me awake. The hour passed too quickly. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and wasn’t ready to leave, but Greg was gently guiding us back to reality.

This Sound Healing Meditation experience was amazing. Who knew the power of singing bowls and a gong? Those vibrations seem to move right through you. (And to think that I have a singing bowl from Bhutan that just sits on my shelf. Maybe I should get it down…)

I loved this experience. It was the highlight of a perfect day at this beautiful and intriguing spa.

 

 

Secret Bunker for the US Government hidden off the beaten path in West Virginia

Greenbrier Resort, WHite Sulphur Springs, West Virginia

Looking at this lavish hotel, who’d ever guess it hid a secret bunker?

Back in the 1950’s, during the Cold War era, the US government built a nuclear fallout shelter deep below ground in White Sulphur Springs. Large enough to house the entire US Congress. Then built a wing extending the luxurious Greenbrier 5 star resort over it, as a genius cover.

For 30 years, this secret bunker stayed fully stocked with food, furniture and even current magazines. Always ready to house government officials at a moments notice. And fully equipped to carry on U.S. government operations from two mock chambers of Congress in case of nuclear war.

The bunker, known as Project Casper, remained hidden until a journalist revealed the location of this operative in a 1992 Washington Post article.

Nowadays it stores data for a storage company. And offers tours through Greenbrier Resort.

We didn’t get a chance to visit the secret chambers since we were driving though after hours. But it sounds awfully interesting. The 90 minute tours, available from 9:30-3:30pm, cost $40.

 

Driving in WV

 

Okay, one more suggestion. Even though we didn’t visit, I’d be remiss for not including it as another one-of-a -kind place off the beaten path in West Virginia. If you like abandoned, spooky places, then this might appeal to you! From White Sulphur Springs it’s a 1.5 hour drive (I-64 west to Beckley, south on I-77).

Lake Shawnee Amusement Park

Twenty-six miles south of Beckley sits an old haunted theme park where coal miners once brought their families. Nowadays, it appears sinister, almost creepy. Invasive plants and wild grasses attempt to overtake the rides, like the trees poking through the ferris wheel and the tall rusty swing ride where a little girl died. There’s something eerie about seeing a place so weathered and forlorn that once brought joy and laughter to children.

In the 1920s, the meadows were converted into a swiming lake, dance hall and amusement park for the coal mining community. In 1966, after 6 children died here from freak accidents at the park, Lake Shawnee amusement park closed after 40 years. No one knew that it sat on an ancient burial ground. And that the land was likely cursed.

Not until the current owner, Mr. White, began excavating the property for a mud bogging track and unearthed artifacts and skeletons of Shawnee children. Digging into the history of the land, it was discovered that Shawnees inhabited this land for 2,000 years. In 1783, Shawnees raided the farm of the first English settlers and murdered 3 of their children. Clay Mitchell retaliated, and murdered several Shawnees in what became known as the Clover Bottom Massacre. Learning this, the owner promptly decided to leave the amusement park and grounds intact.

Privately owned, the Lake Shawnee amusement park offers guided tours (11am & 2pm) that include the ride ruins, Shawnee artifacts unearthed during university digs and burial grounds. Participants are asked to bring an offering to appease the Shawnees. It may be cursed afterall. Lots of hauntings have been recorded.

Every October they hold a Dark Carnival around Halloween. But you can scare yourself silly Saturday nights year round. Sign up to stay overnight, unescorted, to do your own investigating—if you dare.

 

Resources

Getting off the beaten path in West Virginia is easy in this mountainous state—where even the highways seem rural! Diversions and unexpected experiences exist everywhere, if you know where to look. To help plan this road trip, I used several books, but this by far was my favorite!

There’s certainly something for everyone in this wild and wonderful state. Places of beauty and serenity from waterfalls to calming spas. But also opportunities to push yourself outta your comfort zone…whether that’s mountain biking, hiking the ridge at Seneca Rocks, climbing the via ferrata, or even venturing into the dark for possible paranormal encounters. What are you drawn to?

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