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Tonight is a very special time to be in Pisa, Italy…when the Leaning Tower of Pisa glows from hundreds of oil lamps.
Each year on the evening of June 16th, Pisa’s architectural structures are beautifully transformed into a magical sight when 70,000 candles illuminate the night.
This Luminara festival honors their patron saint, San Ranieri, the protector of travelers who was born in 1118. Although he was born to a wealthy family in Pisa, he chose to live a life of poverty to help the poor after receiving a vision of an eagle carrying a torch which instructed him to show the light to anyone living in darkness. He traveled from Pisa to Jerusalem and performed many miracles until his death.
The story goes that hundreds of years later, in 1688, the grand duke of Tuscany decided to move San Ranieri’s cremated remains to a marble tomb in Cappella dell ‘Ingoronata Cathedral in Pisa. As the urn traveled down the Arno River to its final resting place, the residents lit oil lamps and candles to light his passage and honor their saint…and the Luminara Festival was born.
My daughter and I arrived on June 16th last year (but just barely due to a train strike) for Pisa’s largest annual festival. We wandered the back streets and headed to the river where locals were busy at work hanging lights attached to white wooden frames to the balconies of buildings lining Arno River.
Even the Gothic church of Santa Maria della Spina was outlined with tall wooden frames so that the architectural details would glow later that night.
We scouted out our location when we’d return to the river to watch the fireworks finale that night, then returned to the Field of Miracles where we blended into the throngs of tourists posing and snapping Instagram pics in front of the Leaning Tower.
Crowds began to dissipate after 5pm when buses carried away the last of the large tour groups. My daughter insisted that we “eat pizza in Pisa.” So we sat outside our hotel room at an outdoor cafe facing the Tower, and enjoyed a yummy salmon and rocket (arugula) pizza to the relaxing music of a man playing acoustic guitar.
But a palpable sense of anticipation danced in the air as day turned to twilight. Local Italians began to arrive in the city to join in the festivities on this special night. The only night of the year when the monumental buildings in the Field of Miracles would be illuminated. We joined the growing crowd lingering around the base of the Leaning Tower waiting for skies to darken for the annual lighting. Suddenly the Tower glowed, and a chorus of hushed voices uttered ooohs and ahhhs.
Even the Duomo and Baptistry were beautifully lit.
We walked around the striking buildings in the Field of Miracles, and then made our way through the cobblestone streets to Arno River about a 15 minute walk away. We weren’t quite sure when the fireworks would begin (nobody seemed to know) and wanted to secure a spot on the bridge near the Santa Maria della Spina church. Candles on the buildings along the water were now aglow.
I set up my tripod and shot the fireworks in different shutter speeds ranging from 1/10 to 2 seconds per exposure.
It was a bit tricky at times as people were pushing and bumping into me as the crowd grew and many of them were intoxicated. But the excitement in the air was festive, and people apologetic.
The crowds appeared to be all Italians–and those that interacted with us seemed genuinely surprised and happy to see foreign tourists staying for their fireworks. Knowing we’d miss our own 4th of July back in America, we felt like we were celebrating in advance.
The fireworks were impressive, coloring the skies into shades of rose, green, blue, purples and pinks.
The fun lasted a good 30 minutes. We walked back to the hotel near the Leaning Tower, passing vendors selling nutella crepes, roasted nuts, beer and gellato. Even though our hotel receptionist had told us to avoid the river fireworks because of the crowds we were very glad that we went! How often do you get to visit a place and join in the local celebrations? It was so spectacular!! And we never felt unsafe.
Time for one last photo of the illuminated Leaning Tower of Pisa on the only night of the year that it’s lit. It was midnight when we settled into our room, but tired silliness led to giggles that kept us awake another hour. We loved our time in Pisa (and ranked our 2 night visit higher than our time in Venice, if I dare admit!)
We loved the accessibility of our lovely hotel to the Leaning Tower. But there are many places to stay. Check current options for your date on the map below.
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