Outraged at the treatment of bulls during traditional bull fights in Spain? Well, in the South of France, they do bull fights differently here. In fact, bulls are celebrated heroes. They’re not jabbed, stabbed or killed. Bulls adorned with rosette ribbons have 15 minutes of fame to strut their stuff around a Course Camarguaise ring.
This creates a dynamic, chivalrous contest that emphasizes mutual respect, loyalty, and valor between man and beast, rather than combat or death.
History of the Course Camarguaise
It also functions as an organized athletic competition, sanctioned by the French Federation of Camargue Racing in 1975. Razeteurs win monetary prizes and trophies for collecting the most ribbons, the largest prize awarded at the prestigious Cocarde d’Or in Arles.
Cocarde d’Or Festivities in Arles
The morning was supposed to begin with white Camargue horses running through the cobblestone streets. But due to some kind of political unrest elsewhere this was cancelled. Around noon, I noticed locals gathering speed and heading to the opposite side of the Arena from my gite. Curious, I rushed out to join them.
Didn’t know what was happening, but I got there just in time! Gardians on horseback came around the bend, steering four bulls toward the Roman Arena. People cheered as the bulls were safely inside the entrance.
I followed the crowd to another entrance. A festive mood ensued. A small brass band played music. Vendors handed out free popcorn, Rose wine and an oversized paper program chock full of info about tonight’s big race. There was a definite buzz in the air. As the crowd and noise grew, I wandered further into the Arena, which was apparently open for free.
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Two famous spectators included vanGogh and Picasso!!
Both sat in these same stands and painted scenes from their experience watching the bull race. Interestingly, both artists focused on the expressions of the spectators at the event, and not the bull.
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Down in one of the entrance corridors, a couple of Gardian cowboys were standing on planks over a truck. I watched them work trying to tie ribbons and tassles onto bull horns. While he tried his best to get away.
Finally, success!
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Attending the Prestigious Cocarde d’Or Event
Later that afternoon, around 5pm, I headed across the street to attend the big event. The sun was still shining brightly. Razeteurs dressed in white stretched their legs in the outer perimeter of the Arena. Crowds of locals gathered and entered the stadium. I found my seat–a wooden backed bench near the lower level. Numbers written close together meant spectators had to squeeze very tightly together. Making it kinda tricky for photography with a long lens.
Soon the opening ceremony began. An announcer spoke over the loudspeaker thoughout the day. Not understanding French, my comprehension of the events was limited to visual interpretation. Provencal people in traditional dress, women in lacy shawls and distinctive hats, paraded out and performed a choreogaphed dance to music. Gardians rode Camargue horses. And even a man dressed as a Gladiator rode in a cart around the ring with perhaps last year’s winning Razeteur?
A long line of razeteurs paraded out around the ring next, the announcer most likely introducing each by name. And then the ring was emptied.
The announcer then identified the first bull and the manade ranch that bred him. Out came a single bull. All alone in the ring. Looking rather confused, he turned to observe the people in the stands. Then took off running. Pretty soon a group of razeteurs entered the ring.
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And then the race began!
Each race lasted 15 minutes. Each race featured a new bull, progressively more aggressive and fierce, sporting a different colored rosette ribbon who came out to play keep-away from the razeteurs.
It was a dance of sorts. Tense and thrilling to watch. The agility, speed and daring behaviors excited the crowd who gasped at close calls and cheered when a razeteur successfully grabbed a coveted ribbon with his handheld hook.
The unpredictable nature of the bull kept the men on their toes. If aggressively chased, they were ever ready to sprint toward the barrier and leap into the stands!
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Quite acrobatic!
Award ceremony for the Course Camarguaise bull race
At the end of the 8 races, points are tallied for each razeteur based on his style, skillful mastery to artfully dodge a charging bull and number of ribbons and rosettes bravely snatched.
From what I could tell, the top two razeteurs who came out victorious were awarded cash prizes and trophies.
The top razeteur celebrates his victory in gratitude. He appears almost oblivious to the confetti, but not to the recognizition and affection a few moments later marked by a kiss from the Queen of Arles.
And just like that it was all over. What an interesting day. I had enjoyed this glimpse into local Provencal culture. Watching the fast moving action of the skilled razeteurs and the bulls, it was easy to get swept up in the excitement surrounded by vocal locals at my first Course Camarguaise. Their dedication, bravery and agility was fascinating to see, and I felt lucky to attend an event so important in the Camargue. I’d encourage you to attend if ever in Arles!
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