Photographing Yellowstone’s Old Faithful in Winter

Maybe it’s my Minnesota upbringing, but I like snow. And winter. David on the other hand prefers warmer climes and had no interest joining me in Yellowstone in early February. But it was precisely the season I wished to visit. Photographing Yellowstone’s Old Faithful in winter was a dream — when the chilly air transformed into a frosty wonderland of billowing steam and snowy backdrops for the hotsprings, geysers, waterfalls, and colorful mineral springs.

Independent travel through Yellowstone in the winter however is very limited. Roads are closed except to snowcoaches and snowmobiles. So I joined a group that stayed in West Yellowstone and each day we snowmobiled into the park. To reach West Yellowstone, most people fly into Bozeman, Montana and take a shuttle from the airport to the little town on the outskirts of the National Park.  But I had flown into Jackson, WY, which involved quite a few more steps! First required is a bus shuttle through the Tetons, then 2 half-day snowcoach excursions, and an overnight stay at Old Faithful’s Snow Lodge before taking yet another snowcoach shuttle, this time from the Snow Lodge to West Yellowstone. This diversion proved highly satisfying! I had an entire morning to freely wander around the Upper Geyser Basin, most famously known for its resident geyser, Old Faithful.

This post focuses solely on my brief overnight stay at Old Faithful to give you an idea what to expect if you decide to visit in winter. Which I highly recommend!!

Eager to see the famed geyser basin, I bundled up (it was -24 below zero F) before dawn and headed out to find the boardwalk that wove through a vast hotspot of 24 active geysers. (Knowing it would be dark when I left the lodge, I asked reception where to access the boardwalk the night before.)  As I walked around the Visitor Center and stepped onto the snow-covered boardwalk the skies were still dim, but I could make out the distinctive white cloud emitting from Old Faithful. And also the dark form of a lone bison alarmingly close to the trail, its head buried in the snow. Recalling the desk attendant’s instructions to “stay on the boardwalk and keep 200 yards away from the bison” I surveyed my options. Continuing on the boardwalk was out. But I could walk through the snow in a giant arc around him and rejoin the boardwalk around the bend.

400mm (cropped sensor), f6.3, 1/200, 640 ISO

So I traipsed through the snow near the historic Old Faithful Lodge, keeping a wider distance between us than I needed to–just to be safe. From there I took a few shots of him. Made me nervous when he looked right at me!  I didn’t linger. As I rounded the bend, preparing to step on the boardwalk now that the lone bison was out of sight, I stopped in my tracks. Here was an entire herd of bison slowly rousing themselves from sleep. I later learned that it’s their favorite nightspot. Old Faithful’s steam warms the earth and creates a cozy bed for them. So here they were, some standing, some lying, just steps away from the boardwalk. I had no choice but to backtrack. (I tried another giant arc heading toward the river through the forest, but turned back when I sank into deep drifts.)

For a good 20 minutes I was stranded between the unmoving bison, waiting on the perimeter in a snow bank. In complete ignorance, I hadn’t even considered possible bison encounters on my morning quest to see the geysers.

Zoomed in on the herd above. 400mm (cropped sensor), f/6.3, 1/500, 500 ISO

But they did make interesting subjects to photograph. And certainly added an element of excitement along the trail! Despite their large size, they moved with surprising stealth. Several times they spooked me, popping out from behind a snow bank and stepping in my path. I’d freeze when our gazes locked. Then instinctively back up a few paces…would this giant creature continue toward me or merely cross?  There were plenty of hoove prints on the boardwalk. But thankfully each time the bison would eventually cross, and I was free to continue.

What made it alarming was my unfamiliarity with the situation–who hikes among bison?–and my vulnerability–an easy target with no where to run–unless you foolishly (and illegally) take your chances sinking through the hot crust of the geothermal field.  My only encounters with bison up to that point was viewing them from the safety of a snowcoach. Certainly not wandering on foot, by myself, in a vast land where the buffalo roam.

But as photographers, don’t we all long for new experiences and new sights when we go out to shoot? Perhaps it was partly the adrenalin, but that 4 hour hike was my favorite experience in all of Yellowstone, and my favorite images of the trip. The snowy landscapes around sprouting geysers, bubbling hotsprings, and vivid mineral pools were fascinating to explore. As long as you dressed for the cold!

That’s the secret to enjoying winter photography. Wearing the right clothes to match the conditions. In Yellowstone, that means preparing for temps dropping way below zero!  My Baffin boots kept my toes plenty warm, and inexpensive leggings under my Arctix snow pants kept my legs toasty. Seems like my fingers are prone to freezing. But when I wear glove liners as my base layer, then add gloves and then my waterproof mittens my fingers stay warm. That way I can easily remove my right mitten to manipulate my camera dials and then put the mitten on again. Also throwing in a handwarmer also helps on reeeeally cold days!

Detail of one of the many colorful hotsprings. 35mm, f/22, 1/20, 200 ISO

Dead lodgepole pine trees. 30mm, f/22, 1/30, 200 ISO

Lone hiker above a mineral encrusted waterfall. 105mm, f/13, 1/400, 500 ISO

Bison at the Firehole River at Upper Geyser Basin. 300mm, f/13, 1/400, 320 ISO

Snowshoers on the trail mid-morning. 85mm, f/9, 1/640, 320 ISO

Boardwalk over hotspots. Imagine if a bison charged you here?! 35mm, f/16, 1/30, 200 ISO

 

A family joins the trail. 135mm, f/11, 1/320, 200 ISO

Seems fitting that my parting shot was a bison. Was he blocking my return to the lodge or simply warming himself in the steam coming from Castle Geyser? 200mm, f/11, 1/320, 200 ISO

 

Travel Tips

Pack:

Wear yaktrax on your boots for added traction. The boardwalk isn’t shoveled and can get icy.  Wear snowpants. Wrap a scarf around your face to reduce windburn. Wear insulated boots designed for subdegree temps, like my toasty Baffin boots which are good for minus 40! A hooded parka also helps keep the wind out. Bring a flashlight and whistle if you head out alone in the late afternoon.

Transportation:

The easiest way to get to the Snow Lodge at Old Faithful in Yellowstone National Park is to fly into Bozeman, Montana, take the airport shuttle to the small town of West Yellowstone, and then the snowcoach shuttle to the lodge. Check the website for shuttle info as seating is very limited and reservations are a MUST! Alternatively, you can fly into Jackson Hole, WY for skiing or dogsledding fun and arrange shuttles and snowcoach “tours” to the Snow Lodge (like I did). I simply booked “advanced multi-city”air travel so I could catch the shuttle from West Yellowstone up to Bozeman, MT at the end of my trip and fly home from there.

Lodging:

Yellowstone’s Snow Lodge is the perfect base for exploring the boardwalk around Old Faithful and venturing out on snowshoes or cross-country skis (rentals in lodge). Snowcoach tours leave the lodge to visit Firehole Basin & the park’s Grand Canyon.

Or stay part of the time in the more affordable town of West Yellowstone, and rent a snowmobile to explore the park. Here’s a map of West Yellowstone’s current lodging options. Just click on one to see prices, amenities, etc.

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