Fete du Costume in Arles, France

Last summer when I was researching my solo extension from Provence to the Camargue, I wanted to include Arles, the ancient Roman town that had been my first introduction to France 20 long years ago. This time I would be there during their annual International Photographie Festival –which began the first Monday in July. But what a surprise to discover that there were also 2 important cultural events happening over the weekend prior–the Course Camarguaise bull races, and the Fete du Costume festival. What timing!

Arles

Arles is a small, historic, beautifully worn town on the Rhone River. Even without festivals to attend, it’s an appealing place to explore on foot. Narrow cobbled lanes wind past stone houses with pastel shutters and crumbling plaster, plazas with tiny shops, old ornate churches and outdoor cafes. There are art, archeology, cultural and history museums galore. And a Vincent vanGogh trail where you can see the places he painted when he lived here. Despite it’s small size–population 51,000—Arles has 8 monuments listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. But the most impressive to me, by far, is the massive Roman Ampitheatre Arena build in 80 AD. So imagine my delight when I found an adorable gite to rent– just steps away!

It felt like old times staying in a stone, atmospheric, two story gite. I loved looking out my bedroom window admiring the Arena at night. Plus it was the perfect location for staying in Arles. Walked a short distance to museums, cafes and photography exhibits. Attended the Camarguaise bull race, across the street, inside the ancient Arena. And watched the costumed women walk right past my door!

Overview of the Fete du Costume

Every summer hundreds of women from various regions in Provence gather in Arles parade through the streets in vibrant Arlésienne dresses inspired by Paris fashions from the 18th-19th century. Some are family heirlooms. The Fete du Costume is one of the most prominent Arlesian celebrations of Provençal traditions, and highlights the traditional Arlesian costume.

This festival began in 1903 with 18 participants, and today is over 500 strong. It was inspired by the great Provençal poet Frédéric Mistral, (1830-1914) who created the Festo Vierginenco, a ceremonial cebration of young girls entering adulthood.

Up until age 15, girls wore Mireille dresses –ankle length cotton skirt, an apron, black bodice and a simple scarf. Then graduated to wearing elaborate Arlesienne dresses inspired by Parisian fashion at that time–long silk skirts, intricate lace, distinctive hairstyles and habits (hats).

Wanting to preserve Provencal culture, Mistral created this event by inviting young girls and women to showcase the traditional Arlesienne dresses that symbolizes their passage into womanhood. He believed that having local women proudly parade the street in their hand-sewn costumes, some inherited from their mothers and grandmothers, they could celebrate the identity and pride of Provence.

Women typically spend 200 hours creating an Arlesienne dress!

Queen of Fete du Costume

In 1930, the Costume du Fete also began crowning a young woman in her early 20’s as Queen of Arles. Her reign lasts 3 years.

To qualify as a candidate, she must speak Provençal, have a thorough knowledge of Provençal history, literature, architecture, arts, traditions, culture, customs and language. She also must be passionate about the costumes, parade in the Fete du Costume, knowing how to dress and do her own hair. The final four contendors then take a written exam and an oral exam in front of a jury of 7 Arlesians, who announce the next Queen in early May from the balcony of the Town Hall on Place de la République. The other 3 women serve as her Maidens of Honor.

The Fete du Costume I attended in 2024 featured the newly crowned Queen Ameli Laugier, who became the 25th Queen of the festival.

Amelie is a college student pursuing a master’s in business who also works in the florist shop that her grandmother founded in a nearby village.

Not knowing who anybody was while I was there–difficult when ya don’t understand French–I somehow got lucky and spotted her in several captured images after I got home. Spotted Amelie exiting the church, the procession, on stage at the Antique Theatre, on horseback during the running of the bulls, and the ceremonies at the Course Camarguaise bull race.

Fete du Costume Schedule

Times are approximate. Actual events may differ for various reasons.

10am -2 pm: White Camargue mares are released into the streets of Arles! More than 70 mares and foals from 6 manade ranches in the Camargue depart from the west end of Boulevard des Lices (northern border of Le Jardin d’ete) make their way to the Roman Arena where they enter the tunnel. Herds are judged in the Arena, then run back through the streets where they started.

3:00 pm: Women gather at the Place de la République outside the ancient church near the Roman Arena. You’ll also see French cowboys, Gardians, on their beautiful white Camargue horses as they too will follow the procession.

3:30 pm: Formal ceremony and Vierginenco welcome inside the church.

4 pm: Parade begins! Route leaves from Place de la République, passes the Roman Arena on rue de la République, rue Wilson, bd des Lices, enters the Jardin d’Eté at the bottom of Montée Vauban.

5 pm: Women staying in their regional groups enter the Roman Théâtre Antique in order of the parade. Spectators struggle to squeeze into a spot to watch from the bleachers.

5-7 pm: Conclusion of Costume de Fete. Ceremony begins with costumed women dancing on stage. Then Costume du Fete officials and the current Queen make long speeches followed by presentation of the Vierginenco and former reigning Queens.

 

My experience at the Costume du Fete…

Running of the Camargue Horses

Having researched the route in advance, I was ready to watch the white mares run through the narrow cobbled streets. I found a place with a clean background of tall stone homes with trailing vines and flowers. And waited.

Passing tourists looked at me quizzically with my camera gear just standing there. I wanted to tell them, ‘Hey get ready, the horses are coming!’

However…I waited forever… and they never materialized. I finally walked to the Tourism Office on Boulevard des Lices to wait in line and find out why. Turns out this part of the program was cancelled ‘due to the election.’ Apparently the same protests I witnessed in Paris weeks ago suddenly affected possible unrest here– despite the absence of any protests.

So the only white mares I saw that day were the few at the church and in the procession.

Tip: Go to the Visitor Center in advance and inquire about the route, time, etc about what you hope to see. Just know that plans can change. As I had done that the day before!

 

Place de la République

A good place to grab some photos of the women gathering before the festival begins!

Even capture individual portraits as women are keen to pose!

Interesting to see the lacy details up close.

Notre Dame de la Majo church ceremony

A formal presentation of the Queen and her Maidens of Honor are introduced and blessed inside this beautiful historic church. This Romanesque-Gothic church, originally consecrated in 452, was rebuilt in 1152.

Pews are reserved for the Costume du Fete participants. Spectators can watch from the sidelines.

I squeezed into a standing spot toward the back of the church as it was very crowded.

Couldn’t see any of the presentation at all, but enjoyed being inside for the short service listening to women sing in the native Occidental Provencal language.

 

Costume du Fete parade

About 30 minutes later, women of all ages exited the church.

Then began lining up in their groups preparing for the procession.

They soon left the church, paraded past the Roman Arena and made their way through town.

I photographed the parade from various viewpoints–my bedroom window, walking beside them, and intercepting the parade on adjacent streets following them to the Jardin.

There goes the Queen in the red carriage with her Maids of Honor.

Women in the Jardin before entering the Theatre.

Roman Théâtre Antique ceremony

The Théâtre Antique is not as preserved as the Roman Arena. Constructed in 40 BC, during the reign of Caesar Augustus it sits in ruins. (His massive statue uncovered during ongoing excavations stands on display at Museum of Ancient Arles.)

Two Corinthian columns are the only remainders of a hundred that once decorated the open theatre. Some broken remnants litter the grounds, but most stones were used for other construction projects during the Middle Ages when this was used as a quarry.

A tall tower rising near the south entrance of the Theatre is one of the main remains at these ruins.

The ancient stone ampitheatre sitting area curves around a modern stage outfitted with lights as it is still used to host concerts and events. Originally the theatre seated 8000 spectators. Today, only a few hundred people can fit on the remaining stone bleachers.

I found a place to sit before the ceremony begun, about halfway up the ancient stone blocks. This was a long 2 hour ceremony in full sun so know this in advance, as it will likely be very difficult to exit once it begins.

Of course I couldn’t understand a thing in their speeches. But people watching was fun. Especially the irritated responses and behaviors of locals when late comers attempted to squeeze in crowed bleaches and blocked their view. Sparks were flyin’!

And did I mention how hot it was? Poor ladies in those long heavy costumed were fanning themselves and or hiding under parasols. One older woman on stage actually collapsed from the heat and had to be carried off stage.

Here is the Queen of Arles giving her speech. This is when I finally learned who the Queen was.

A friendly man sitting beside me kindly tolerated my feeble attempts at French (and Google translate) and thereafter kept informing me about other important details throughout the ceremony (that I couldn’t comprehend).

Wanna go?

I highly recommend it!!

The next Fete du Costume occurs on Sunday, July 6th, 2025.

Closest airports are Nimes (20 minute drive) or Marseille Provence Airport (50 min drive). And there are direct trains to Arles from Avignon (connect from Paris) and other regions in France.

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